75 Fxe Voltage With Tach Feed

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pjbortscheller Topic Author Offline User Posts: 7 Thank you received: 0

My '82 KZ100 K tach. isn't working. Upon troubleshooting I discovered that the voltage coming from the 1-4 coil is reading 8 to 10 volts. My understanding is that it should be in the 2 to 4 volt range. The 2-3 coil gives the same voltage. I've replaced the actua tach. but no better. I've run a separate wire to isolate the harness and even taken a reading directly from the black lead of the coil and continually come up with the higher voltage. Anyone had / know of this problem and have a solution? Thanks

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MFolks Offline User Posts: 6650 Thank you received: 539	How did you determine it should be 2-4 volts? If your bike has the push button switch on the instrument panel like mine does, the tach becomes a voltmeter, reading the D.C. volts of the system, normally 14.5 volts at idle. 1982 GPZ1100 B2 General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993 GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
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pjbortscheller Topic Author Offline User Posts: 7 Thank you received: 0	Clymer service manual states 2-4 volts. Mine does not have the push button voltage meter.
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martin_csr Offline User Posts: 7656 Thank you received: 1505

The Kawasaki factory service manual has fairly detailed test procedures for the speedo & tachometer. I think you're supposed to test the voltage at the tachometer connector - disconnect it, turn the ignition switch ON, & probe the correct wires. It should show battery voltage. I'm pretty sure this manual covers your bike. There are others listed. Kawasaki manuals have a model application chart on the back cover, so make sure your model is included on the list.

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slayer61 Offline User KZR FLAG RELAY CARRIER #62 Posts: 778 Thank you received: 181

Clymer service manual states 2-4 volts. Mine does not have the push button voltage meter. That wouldn't be the first Clymer manual with a typo. It should say 12-14 volts. The tach picks up it's signal directly from the coil. Good luck, Paul Don't be ridiculous! It's only a flesh wound! Wife's little bike... 1984 GPZ 550 Kerker and DynaJet stage I kit Wife's BIG bike...... 1981 GPZ 1100 Kerker and factory FI Mikuni RS34s W/ K&N pods

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MFolks Offline User Posts: 6650 Thank you received: 539

The Clymer, Haynes, Chilton, and other manuals leave a lot to be desired for accuracy, especially troubleshooting. The factory shop manual from Kawasaki has incorrect torque for the cam cap torque too: Kawasaki Cam Cap Torque Cam Cap Holes Stripped The torque for the bolts should be 66 INCH Pounds(8 foot pounds), not 12 ft pounds. It's incorrect in the factory manual, and probably wrong for the Haynes, Clymer, and Chilton manuals too. Out of curiosity Mike, how did you know the torque specs are wrong in the factory (and Chilton) manuals? From 12 ft lbs to 5.5 is pretty significant amount.... I found that out at KZrider.com. Somebody a ways back was complaining about stripped camshaft bearing cap bolts, and how his seemed to be over torqued. If you can find "Kopcicle" here on this forum, he can probably confirm the lower torque limit. Another torque change is the two M6 x 1 cylinder head bolts , going from 104 INCH pounds to 94 INCH pounds. Hoyt Clagwell wrote: All of the pros around here say no more than 9 ft/lbs for the cam cap bolts. My butt is still sore from when I suggested that the manual knows best. I got my mind right now. Bounty Hunter Wrote: I believe about 104 inch-pounds is right for the camshaft cap bolts (don't exceed this) but the cam cover itself: I use a lot less, more like 60 - 70 Inch Pounds to keep from crushing the gasket. 1982 GPZ1100 B2 General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993 GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

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pjbortscheller Topic Author Offline User Posts: 7 Thank you received: 0	Thanks, Paul. I'd not considered the possibility of a typo in the manual. With that in mind, what do you make of the 9 to 10 volts I'm seeing from the coils - I've tried both? Is that measured as DC or AC with the meter? I appreciate your time. Pat
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MFolks Offline User Posts: 6650 Thank you received: 539	It should be D.C. voltage, the same as battery voltage. Possibly there's a wiring problem, but you said the tach's been replaced with the same result? 1982 GPZ1100 B2 General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993 GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
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pjbortscheller Topic Author Offline User Posts: 7 Thank you received: 0	I'm measureing voltage right off the coil and it's 9 - 10 volts (same as I get at the Tach.). Not a wiring issue. Replaced the Tach and it shows no RPM. Thanks Pat
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slayer61 Offline User KZR FLAG RELAY CARRIER #62 Posts: 778 Thank you received: 181

Pat, This is one of those things that is lots easier to repair/troubleshoot if you understand what it is supposed to be doing. Think of the tachometer as a "frequency" meter. Frequency is measured in cycles-per-second or "hertz" or "HZ" In order for the tachometer to see the frequency that the coil fires, it needs two things: 1). A good solid (+) voltage signal, usually switched with the ignition key... key on=voltage (measured or referenced) to ground. A good thing! 2). A pulsating (-) that is generated by the points on older motors or the electronic ignition on "newer" models. This "pulsating" (-) is found at the (-) terminal of the coil weather generated by points or electronic ignition. If you have a more up-scale DVOM you might even have a HZ setting on your meter. Hook your tachometer feed cables up to your DVOM, set it to read HZ and start the motor. If you see 16.67 hz or so at idle, AND it changes to a higher number as you rev the motor, your tach circuit operates as it should, and your trouble is in your tach. If you don't get a hz reading, you have a wiring issue, or the wrong wires. Hope this helps, and good luck with your tach. Paul Don't be ridiculous! It's only a flesh wound! Wife's little bike... 1984 GPZ 550 Kerker and DynaJet stage I kit Wife's BIG bike...... 1981 GPZ 1100 Kerker and factory FI Mikuni RS34s W/ K&N pods

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pjbortscheller Topic Author Offline User Posts: 7 Thank you received: 0	I understand exactly what you're saying. I do have electrical / electronics background, but the specific information you've provided is very helpful - and not something I've come across in the manuals. I'll get my hands on a good automotive DVOM and take a look. Thanks for your time and knowledge. Pat
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slayer61 Offline User KZR FLAG RELAY CARRIER #62 Posts: 778 Thank you received: 181

Pat, keep in mind, I'm not a Kawasaki specialist, I don't have the FSM sitting in front of me, so I can't quote wire colors or anything. I'm just a knuckle draggin' electrician with a little bit of theoretical knowledge doing my best to keep a power plant running! Don't be ridiculous! It's only a flesh wound! Wife's little bike... 1984 GPZ 550 Kerker and DynaJet stage I kit Wife's BIG bike...... 1981 GPZ 1100 Kerker and factory FI Mikuni RS34s W/ K&N pods

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Source: https://kzrider.com/forum/4-electrical/590279-coil-voltage-to-tachometer

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